PLOCACOSMOS: OR THE WHOLE ART OF HAIR DRESSING

London: Printed for the author, 1782. FIRST EDITION. 245 x 145 mm. (9 5/8 x 5 3/4"). 3 p.l. (lacking half title, as usual), 485 pp.
Tasteful contemporary tree calf, covers with gilt pentaglyph-and-metope border, very expertly rebacked to style, smooth spine lavishly gilt in compartments separated by pentaglyph-and-metope roll and filled with repeating patten of floral and other small tools, red morocco label, marbled endpapers. Engraved frontispiece illustrating Shakespeare's "Seven Ages of Man" printed in sanguine, and 10 PLATES OF ELABORATE AND FREQUENTLY FANTASTICAL HAIRSTYLES, engraved on copper by Delegal. A Large Paper Copy. Colas 2802; Hiler, p. 816; Lipperheide 1681; ESTC T145753. ◆Occasional minor (mostly marginal) foxing (though three quires more noticeably affected), four plates with faint browning to margins, other trivial imperfections, but A VERY FRESH COPY WITH EXTREMELY WIDE MARGINS, in quite a handsome skillfully restored binding showing almost no signs of wear.

Published for ladies' maids and valets as well as that less fortunate woman who relied on her own hands for hairstyling, this work supplies "ample rules . . . [and] directions" for arranging and preserving hair, along "with a history of the hair and head dress, from the earliest ages to the present time, particularly as they have appeared upon the English stage" during the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries. Our author/hairdresser James Stewart offers a comprehensive analysis of hair's growth, nature, and color as well as the various products, cosmetics, and wigs that might be used in hair care, styling, and replacement. No doubt to widen the potential customer base for the book, its protracted subtitle goes on to inform us that "the plan of this work requiring it, there are also complete rules for the management of children and education of youth; and excellent rules for the preservation of the health and happiness of age; being a guide through the seven ages of man: the whole interspersed with moral thoughts, being necessary for all families." But it's mostly about hair. Stewart has illustrated this work with some of his elegant and fanciful creations for both men and women, the latter evincing his (intuitive) belief in the old Southern maxim, "The higher the hair, the closer to God." He employs actresses for his examples, and throws in occasionally unkind commentary on the personal grooming of past and present stars of the stage. It is extremely fortunate to find a clean, bright copy of this work, especially with plates so minimally affected by discoloration. All of the other copies we've encountered have been sadly affected by overall browning and significant foxing. Uncommonly seen in agreeable condition, the book is also just plain uncommon in general..